Vanuatu is an 83-island archipelago in the South Pacific, a former Franco-British condominium independent since 1980. Espiritu Santo island holds the SS President Coolidge, a 199 m American ocean liner sunk in 1942 at depths of 17-70 m. It is the largest accessible recreational wreck in the world. Easily combined with Pentecost island (ritual land diving, precursor to bungee jumping) and Melanesian culture.
Vanuatu is an archipelago nation of 83 volcanic islands in Melanesia (South Pacific), independent since 1980 — it was previously a Franco-British condominium called the New Hebrides. Population: 320,000 across 12,189 km². Capital: Port Vila on Efaté island. The SS Coolidge is on Espiritu Santo (the largest island, 4,010 km², main town Luganville). Languages: Bislama (Melanesian-English creole), English, French, and over 100 local languages. No visa required for European nationals (90 days). Currency: vatu (VUV).
The SS Coolidge: the SS President Coolidge was a 199 m American ocean liner built in 1931, requisitioned in 1941 as a troopship for the Pacific. On 26 October 1942, she entered the Segond Channel (Espiritu Santo) carrying 5,340 soldiers and struck two American-laid mines (anti-submarine defenses). The captain deliberately beached her to allow evacuation. Only 2 of the 5,340 aboard died. The ship slid into deeper water and came to rest largely intact. It is the largest accessible recreational wreck in the world — bigger than any wreck in Truk Lagoon.
Diving the SS Coolidge: the wreck rests on its port side at depths of 17-70 m. Routes suit all levels: 1) The Lady (iconic ceramic figurine at 25 m, recreational). 2) Promenade Deck (21 m). 3) Bridge (28 m). 4) Engine Room (40 m, technical). 5) Cargo Holds (military equipment at 35-50 m). 6) Bow (50-65 m, technical). 7) Stern (30-45 m). The wreck is enormous and demands multiple dives. Experienced divers routinely spend an entire week diving nothing but the Coolidge.
Other sites on Espiritu Santo: 1) Million Dollar Point (dump of US military equipment from WWII — vehicles, machinery pushed into the sea at war's end, 5-25 m). 2) USS Tucker (American destroyer sunk 1942, 18-25 m). 3) Roi-Mata's Domain (UNESCO, 17th-century Melanesian chief's cultural site). 4) Champagne Beach (shallow diving, 5-12 m). 5) Aore Island (resort opposite Luganville, coral sites at 10-25 m). The destination blends WWII wrecks with reef diving and cultural heritage.
Pentecost and the ritual land diving: Pentecost island (1 hour by plane from Espiritu Santo) is famous for the Naghol or Land Diving — a male ritual in which men tie vines to their ankles and jump from wooden towers 20-30 m high. It is the direct precursor of modern bungee jumping. The ritual takes place from April to June. This unique cultural event pairs naturally with diving the Coolidge for a complete Vanuatu itinerary of 10-14 days.
Logistics and costs: flights to Port Vila (VLI) from Brisbane, Sydney, Auckland, Nouméa (New Caledonia), Fiji, Honiara (Solomon Islands). Domestic connection to Luganville (SON, Espiritu Santo) takes 60 minutes. Dive operators: Allan Power Dive Tours (running Coolidge dives since 1969), Aquamarine, Coral Quay Diving. Single Coolidge dive: €60-90. 10-dive Coolidge package: €500-800. PADI Open Water course: €400-550. Accommodation: guesthouses from €50, hotels €80-200.
What genuinely surprises visitors: Melanesian warmth. Vanuatu was ranked the happiest country in the world in 2006 by the Happy Planet Index. Locals are open, warm and curious toward visitors. Traditional villages on Espiritu Santo (near Luganville) welcome tourists for cultural visits with dance and food. The kastom (traditional) culture remains alive through ceremonies, dances and crafts (wood carving, masks). This human context sets Vanuatu apart from any Asian dive resort — the crowds simply are not here.
The bottom line: Espiritu Santo, Vanuatu, is a South Pacific destination with genuine historical weight, marine biodiversity and living Melanesian culture. The SS President Coolidge offers a full week of wreck diving without repeating a single route. Million Dollar Point and the USS Tucker round out the WWII offer. Pentecost's Land Diving adds rare cultural depth. For pure reef diving and big marine life, Indonesia or the Philippines win. For a mix of WWII history, Melanesian culture and uncrowded South Pacific diving, Vanuatu is the clear choice. Best season: May to October (dry season).